Burberry Group (BRBY.L) - Company Research
Last Updated: 28 April 2026
Burberry Group plc (LSE: BRBY) is a FTSE 100 British luxury house in the early innings of a turnaround under Joshua Schulman, who became CEO on 17 July 2024 and launched the "Burberry Forward" plan in November 2024 after revenue collapsed -15% in FY25 to £2.46 bn and adjusted operating profit fell to £26 m (margin 1%) from £418 m the prior year. Q3 FY26 (the 13 weeks to late December 2025, reported 21 January 2026) delivered the first comparable retail sales growth in two years (+3% CER), with Greater China returning to growth (+6%) and all four regions flat-or-positive for a second consecutive quarter. H1 FY26 had already shown gross margin expansion of 450 bps to 67.9% and a return to a small adjusted operating profit (£19 m) versus a (£41 m) loss in H1 FY25, although the dividend remains suspended and net debt/EBITDA stood at 2.2× at H1 FY26. CEO Schulman and CFO Kate Ferry made discretionary share purchases on 27 June 2025 (£1,069p and £1,099p respectively). The shares closed at 1,147.6p on 24 April 2026; FY26 preliminary results are scheduled for 14 May 2026. This report covers the FY25 numbers, the Burberry Forward strategy, the £100 m cost programme, the licensing portfolio, and the principal risks: China demand, executive turnover (3 CEOs in 4 years), brand identity volatility, and a structurally weaker leather-goods position than tier-one luxury peers.
1. Company Snapshot
| Company | Burberry Group plc |
| Ticker | LSE: BRBY (FTSE 100); ADR: BURBY |
| Sector / Industry | Personal luxury goods — British heritage |
| HQ | Horseferry House, Horseferry Road, London SW1P 2AW |
| CEO | Joshua Schulman (since 17 July 2024; ex-Coach, Michael Kors, Jimmy Choo) |
| CFO | Kate Ferry (since October 2023) |
| Chair | Gerry Murphy |
| Chief Operating & Supply Chain Officer | Matteo Calonaci (from December 2025) |
| Founded | 1856 by Thomas Burberry, Basingstoke |
| Employees | ~9,000–10,000 globally (~1,700 role reductions announced) |
| Fiscal year end | Late March / early April (FY26 ends 28 March 2026) |
| Share price (24 Apr 2026) | 1,147.6p |
| 52-week range | ~641p (Apr 2025) – 1,376.5p (6 Jan 2026) |
| Market cap | ~£4.1–4.2 bn (~363.8 m issued shares incl. ~2.84 m in treasury) |
| FY2025 revenue | £2,461 m (-15% CER) |
| FY2025 adj op profit | £26 m (margin 1%) |
| H1 FY26 adj op profit | £19 m vs £(41) m H1 FY25 |
| Q3 FY26 retail comp sales | +3% CER (first growth in two years) |
| Dividend | SUSPENDED (no FY25 final, no H1 FY26 interim) |
| Next results | FY26 prelims — 14 May 2026 |
2. Bull Case vs Bear Case
| Bull Case | Bear Case |
|---|---|
| Q3 FY26 (reported 21 Jan 2026): comparable retail sales +3% CER — first growth in two years; sequential improvement Q1 -2% → Q2 +2% → Q3 +3%; Greater China +6%; all four regions flat-or-positive two quarters running. | FY25 revenue £2,461 m (-15% CER); adj op profit collapsed to £26 m vs £418 m FY24; margin 1%. Wholesale -35% CER in FY25. |
| Gross margin expanded 450 bps to 67.9% in H1 FY26 (from 63.4%); back to a small adj op profit (£19 m) vs (£41) m loss prior year — "Burberry Forward" plan delivering early. | Dividend remains suspended through H1 FY26; cash dropped from £708 m (Mar-25) to £424 m (Sep-25); net debt / adj EBITDA 2.2× at H1 FY26. |
| £100 m cost programme on track: £80 m annualised savings by end FY26, full £100 m by FY27; ~1,700 roles cut; hero categories (outerwear, scarves) growing double-digit; 200+ scarf bars rolled out globally. | Wholesale -11% CER in H1 FY26 (continuing pressure); deliberate reduction creates near-term revenue drag; partner network shrinking. |
| Insider conviction: CEO Schulman bought 29,744 shares at 1,069.09p on 27 Jun 2025; CFO Ferry bought 3,228 at 1,099.79p the same day — both discretionary on-market purchases. | Structurally weaker than tier-one luxury (Hermès, LVMH leather goods); lacks dominant leather franchise; soft-luxury cycle weighing on aspirational customers. |
| FY26 prelim results 14 May 2026 will be the first full-year scorecard for "Burberry Forward"; Schulman has previously turned around Coach and is publicly bullish on positioning the brand back in heritage British luxury. | 3 CEOs in 4 years (Gobbetti, Akeroyd, Schulman); creative director Daniel Lee’s 2023 reset reversed; brand-identity volatility and execution risk remain a persistent overhang. |
3. What Does This Company Actually Do?
Burberry designs, manufactures, distributes and retails branded luxury apparel and accessories with a focus on heritage outerwear (gabardine, trench coats, the Burberry check), scarves, leather goods and other accessories. It operates through directly-operated stores, concessions, outlets, e-commerce and a managed wholesale partner network (department stores, multi-brand retailers and travel-retail). Licensed product (notably fragrance via Coty, and Japan licensing with Sanyo Shokai/Mitsui historically) contributes a small but high-margin slice.
FY25 channel mix (% of £2,461 m group revenue):
| Channel | Revenue (£m) | YoY (CER) | % of group |
|---|---|---|---|
| Retail | 2,076 | -11% | ~84% |
| Wholesale | 319 | -35% | ~13% |
| Licensing | 66 | +9% | ~3% |
FY25 regional split:
| Region | Revenue (£m) | % of group | Stores |
|---|---|---|---|
| Asia Pacific (Greater China + Korea + Japan + SEA) | 1,043 | 42% | 237 |
| EMEIA (Europe, Middle East, India, Africa) | 842 | 34% | 100 |
| Americas | 510 | 21% | 85 |
Product mix: Accessories £841 m (FY25), Womenswear £718 m, Menswear £732 m. Outerwear (gabardine, trench, heritage) and scarves are the explicit hero categories under Burberry Forward.
4. The Business Model
- Gross margin: 67.9% (H1 FY26) vs 63.4% (H1 FY25); ~63% (FY25 full-year) — recovery driven by full-price mix, lower discounting, and supply-chain efficiencies.
- Stores: 422 directly operated stores (Mar 2025); 449 total locations including concessions, outlets and franchises (Jun 2025).
- Manufacturing: Owned heritage outerwear in Castleford, Yorkshire (gabardine, trench coats); Italian leather-goods and technical-outerwear capability built via M&A; broader global supplier network.
- Brand positioning: Heritage British luxury — gabardine, trench, check pattern, scarves. The 2023 Daniel Lee creative reset has been dialled back under Schulman in favour of returning to "timeless British luxury" cues.
- Pricing: Burberry Forward recalibrated entry price points (especially leather goods) downward toward more accessible luxury; full-price sales accelerating in Q3 FY26.
- Cost programme: £100 m annualised savings by FY27 (£40 m original + £60 m incremental); ~1,700 roles cut globally; £80 m run-rate by end FY26.
- Government incentives / regulatory credits: Not material to the business model; BRBY does not depend on subsidies, tax credits or regulatory credits.
5. Financial Health
Five-year financials (FY21–FY25, March year-end):
| Metric | FY21 | FY22 | FY23 | FY24 | FY25 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Revenue (£m) | 2,344 | 2,826 | 3,094 | 2,968 | 2,461 |
| Adj op profit (£m) | ~396 | 523 | 634 | 418 | 26 |
| Adj op margin | ~17% | ~19% | ~20% | 14% | 1% |
| Free cash flow (£m) | n/a | n/a | n/a | 63 | 65 |
| Net cash (£m, ex-leases) | strong | strong | strong | n/a | (30) |
| Total DPS (p) | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | 0 (suspended) |
Half-year periods:
| Period | Revenue (£m) | Adj op profit (£m) | Adj op margin |
|---|---|---|---|
| H1 FY24 | ~1,397 | ~223 | ~16% |
| H1 FY25 | ~1,086 | (41) | (3.8%) |
| H2 FY25 | ~1,375 | 67 | 4.9% |
| H1 FY26 (reported 13 Nov 2025) | 1,032 (-3% CER) | 19 | 1.8% |
| Q3 FY26 retail (21 Jan 2026) | 665 (+3% CER) | n/d | n/d |
Capital structure (H1 FY26, Sept 2025): Cash £424 m (down from £708 m at Mar-25); net debt / adj EBITDA 2.2× (incl. lease liabilities); FY26 H1 adj diluted EPS 0.6p vs (18.3)p; reported diluted loss per share (7.1)p vs (20.8)p.
6. Valuation & Market Data
| Share price (24 Apr 2026 close) | 1,147.6p (-0.21% on day) |
| Market cap | ~£4.1–4.2 bn |
| Shares in issue (31 Mar 2026) | 363,838,387 (incl. 2,839,220 in treasury) |
| Enterprise value | ~£4.7–4.8 bn (incl. lease liabilities) |
| 52-week range | ~641p (Apr 2025) – 1,376.5p (6 Jan 2026) |
| Trailing P/E | negative (TTM loss) |
| Forward P/E (consensus) | ~50–57× (depressed earnings base; recovery year) |
| EV / EBITDA | ~6×–12× range across data providers |
| Price / Sales | ~1.7× (on FY25 revenue) |
| Dividend yield | 0% (suspended) |
| Net debt / adj EBITDA (H1 FY26) | 2.2× |
| Cash (Sept 2025) | £424 m |
7. What Are They Building / What’s Coming?
- Burberry Forward strategy – Launched Nov 2024 by Schulman. Five pillars: (1) re-anchor brand in timeless British luxury, (2) hero outerwear & scarves, (3) reset price architecture (esp. leather), (4) improve productivity, (5) stabilise wholesale.
- £100 m cost programme – £80 m annualised savings by end FY26, full £100 m by FY27; ~1,700 roles cut globally.
- Store renovations – Scarf bars rolled out to 200+ locations; flagship refresh ongoing.
- Hero categories – Outerwear and scarves growing double-digit in Q3 FY26; gabardine capsule and trench heritage being pushed.
- Recent operational appointments – Matteo Calonaci (COO/Supply Chain) and a new Chief Customer Officer announced December 2025.
- Product launches in calendar 2026 – Winter 2026, Summer 2026 and High Summer 2026 campaigns; Hunza G swimwear collaboration launched 28 April 2026 (in stores and online; signature check + new "seahorse Knight" logo).
- Digital / AI – Customer data and analytics investment under the new CCO; specific AI tooling not separately broken out in filings.
- Licensing portfolio – Coty fragrance licence remains the largest licensing partner; Japan licensing arrangement with Sanyo Shokai/Mitsui has historic origins (note: a "17 April 2026" licence amendment that surfaced in some external feeds is in fact dated 2 October 2009).
8. Competitive Landscape
The global personal luxury market sits around $370–490 bn in 2025/26 estimates and grows ~3–4% per year. Burberry is a mid-cap UK-listed luxury house with ~£2.5 bn revenue, well behind tier-one European houses by both scale and margin.
| Peer | 2025 revenue (approx) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| LVMH | ~€80.8 bn | Largest; ~1% organic decline 2025 |
| Richemont | ~$22 bn | Jewellery-led (Cartier, Van Cleef) |
| Kering | ~€17 bn (-13% reported) | Gucci weakness key drag |
| Hermès | ~€16 bn (+9% CC) | 41% op margin — structural luxury leader |
| Prada Group | ~€5 bn+ | Miu Miu surge; pending Versace deal |
| Moncler | ~€3 bn | Outerwear-focused; closest single-category peer |
| Brunello Cucinelli | ~€1.4 bn | Mid-cap, strong execution |
| Burberry | ~£2.5 bn (FY25) | Heritage British luxury; in turnaround |
| Capri Holdings | ~$5 bn | Michael Kors, Versace, Jimmy Choo — accessible luxury |
| Tapestry | ~$6 bn | Coach, Kate Spade — Schulman’s former employer |
| Ralph Lauren | ~$7 bn | American heritage |
| Tod’s | ~€1.1 bn | Italian leather, family-controlled |
Reliable single-figure market-share percentages for the personal luxury market are not consistently published; soft luxury (Burberry’s segment) is a sub-segment of the broader $400 bn-ish market and is currently underperforming hard luxury (Hermès, jewellery) at the consumer end.
9. Leadership and Ownership
Top institutional holders (April 2026):
| Holder | Approx. holding | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| BlackRock | ~6.4% | Largest institutional |
| Lindsell Train | multi-percent | UK fund manager, long-term holder |
| Vanguard funds | ~3–4% combined | Index-linked passive |
| JPMorgan Chase Holdings | moving across thresholds (multiple notifications 1–10 April 2026) | RNS series Apr 2026 |
| Total institutional | ~87–89% | Heavy float |
Insider transactions:
| Date | Person | Action | Shares | Price | Type |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 27 Jun 2025 | Joshua Schulman (CEO) | Buy | 29,744 | 1,069.09p | Discretionary on-market purchase |
| 27 Jun 2025 | Kate Ferry (CFO) | Buy | 3,228 | 1,099.79p | Discretionary on-market purchase |
| 31 Jul 2025 | Directors | Conditional share awards | various | Reference 1,348p | Burberry Share Plan (5-yr min hold) |
| 11 Dec 2025 | Directors | SIP nil-cost grants | various | Reference £11.98 | Share Incentive Plan |
| 20 Mar 2026 | Director / PDMR | Shareholding RNS | n/d | n/d | Routine notification |
10. Risks and Challenges
- China demand: Greater China is the largest single market; consumer sentiment, property/macro drag, anti-extravagance and tourism flows directly drive results.
- Luxury cycle: Aspirational consumer pullback affecting all soft-luxury houses (Kering, LVMH F&LG, Burberry); contrast with hard luxury (Hermès, jewellery).
- Executive turnover: 3 CEOs in 4 years (Gobbetti 2017–2022, Akeroyd 2022–2024, Schulman 2024–); strategy reset risk.
- Brand identity volatility: Daniel Lee creative direction (2023) reversed; back to heritage under Schulman.
- Wholesale concentration: Deliberate -35% CER reduction in FY25 creates near-term revenue drag; multi-year recalibration.
- Licensing concentration: Coty fragrance and historic Japan licensing — small revenue but disproportionate brand-control sensitivity.
- FX exposure: ~£60 m FX headwind in FY24; significant USD/RMB/JPY exposure given retail footprint.
- Tariff and trade: Soft-luxury imports facing tariff uncertainty (US-China) and EU/UK trade frictions.
- Dividend / cash: Suspended through H1 FY26; resumption tied to FY26 prelim outcome and net debt trajectory.
- ESG / animal welfare scrutiny: Wool, leather, exotic skins under regulatory and reputational pressure.
11. Recent Developments
- 28 April 2026 (today): Burberry x Hunza G swimwear collaboration launched in stores and online — signature check + new "seahorse Knight" logo.
- 1–10 April 2026: Multiple JPMorgan Chase Holdings notifications crossing notification thresholds. 1 April: Issue of Shares & Total Voting Rights RNS.
- 31 March 2026: Total Voting Rights — 363,838,387 ordinary shares (incl. 2,839,220 in treasury).
- 20 March 2026: Director / PDMR shareholding; Issue of Equity.
- 21 January 2026 — Q3 FY26 trading update: Comparable retail sales +3% CER (first growth in two years); retail revenue £665 m (+1% reported, +3% CER); Greater China +6%; all four regions flat-or-positive for second consecutive quarter; Schulman: "continued to build momentum with our Burberry Forward strategy".
- 13 November 2025 — H1 FY26 (26 weeks to 27 Sept 2025): Revenue £1,032 m (-3% CER, -5% reported); comps flat in H1, +2% in Q2; gross margin 67.9% (+450bps); adj op profit £19 m vs (£41) m prior year; net debt / adj EBITDA 2.2×; cash £424 m; no interim dividend; adj diluted EPS 0.6p vs (18.3)p.
- July 2025 — Q1 FY26 trading update: Comp sales -2%; signs of stabilisation under "Burberry Forward".
- 27 June 2025: CEO Schulman bought 29,744 shares at 1,069.09p; CFO Ferry bought 3,228 at 1,099.79p — both discretionary purchases.
- 14 May 2025 — FY25 prelims: Revenue £2,461 m (-15% CER); adj op profit £26 m vs £418 m FY24; margin 1%; dividend suspended.
- Nov 2024: Joshua Schulman launched "Burberry Forward" plan, three months after taking the CEO role.
12. Key Dates Coming Up
| Date | Event |
|---|---|
| 14 May 2026 | FY26 Preliminary Results (year ended 28 March 2026) |
| Mid-July 2026 | 2026 AGM (typical Horseferry House timing) |
| Mid-July 2026 | Q1 FY27 trading update (typical timing) |
| Mid-November 2026 | H1 FY27 interim results (typical) |
| Mid-January 2027 | Q3 FY27 trading update (typical) |
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13. Thesis Verdict
The central thesis. Burberry designs and retails heritage British luxury apparel and accessories, with FY25 revenue of £2,461m generated ~84% through directly-operated retail, ~13% wholesale and ~3% licensing, and Asia Pacific accounting for 42% of group sales. The structural driver is CEO Joshua Schulman's "Burberry Forward" plan, launched November 2024, which re-anchors the brand in timeless British luxury, prioritises hero outerwear and scarves, recalibrates leather pricing and targets £100m of annualised cost savings by FY27. Early signs include Q3 FY26 comparable retail sales of +3% CER (first growth in two years), Greater China +6%, and H1 FY26 gross margin expanding 450bps to 67.9%. The nearest catalyst is the FY26 preliminary results on 14 May 2026.
What would confirm or break it. Continued sequential comp improvement, further gross-margin progression, delivery of the £80m run-rate saving by end FY26, stabilisation of the -11% CER wholesale decline, and a recovery in cash from £424m alongside reduction of 2.2× net debt/adj EBITDA would reinforce the turnaround. Materialisation of weaker Greater China demand, renewed executive turnover, prolonged aspirational-consumer softness, FX or tariff headwinds, or continued dividend suspension would invalidate it.
Watchpoints
- ConfirmsSubsequent earnings and filings reinforcing the figures presented in this report.
- ConfirmsSubsequent earnings and filings reinforcing the figures presented in this report.
- InvalidatesAny disclosure that directly contradicts a material claim in the bull case.
Diagnostic grid
Generated by ChartsView research tooling. Thesis strength measures how well the evidence in this report supports the company's stated thesis — it is NOT a buy/sell rating or price target. ChartsView is not authorised by the FCA to provide regulated investment advice. Generated 28 Apr 2026.
